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Fences - Build A Fence, Woodworking Plans
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Project
Magnet
MART
Home Warehouse
Project Cost Estimator
Materials Description
Quantity
Cost
Posts (usually 125mm x 75mm)
Rails (75mm x 50mm)
Palings (100mm and/or 150mm wide)
Concrete Mix
Galvanised Nails:
40mm x 2mm flat head
50mm x 2.8mm flat head
75mm x 3.75mm bullet head
Scrap timber for bracing & stakes
Timber Fence Finish
Equipment
String Line
Spirit Level or Post Level
Spade or Post Hole Digger
Hammer
Measuring Tape
Circular Saw or Hand Saw
Chisel Set
Paint Brush
Total
All these materials you need for this job are available at Magnet
Mart, your home improvement warehouse.
Build a
Fence
Note: Due to the general nature of this advice and its individual application,
neither the publisher nor the retailer assumes any responsibility for any loss,
damage, injury or expense which may be incurred or suffered as a result of
the use of this pamphlet.
• Easy to follow step-by-step guide
• Important and handy tips
• Materials check list
• Project Cost Estimator
Before you start, please read through this pamphlet carefully and
estimate and assemble all the materials you will need for the
project and gather your tools and equipment together. Refer to
the checklist and estimating form on the back panel of the
pamphlet to assist in this preparation.
© Magnet Mart 2004
Phillip
Hindmarsh Dr Ph 6281 1744 Fax 6285 2493
Belconnen
Lathlain St Ph 6251 4622 Fax 6253 1087
Mitchell
Vicars St Ph 6241 7311 Fax 6241 7545
Gungahlin
Crinigan Cir Ph 6228 9300 Fax 6228 9311
Queanbeyan
Yass Rd Ph 6297 8711 Fax 6299 2226
Goulburn
Sloane St Ph 4821 3533 Fax 4821 7347
Bowral
Bong Bong St Ph 4861 2355 Fax 4862 1066
YOU CAN – Build a Fence
Economical Timber Fencing
This brochure shows you how to build a long-lasting, economical
timber fence with a minimum of fuss. Timber fences provide
privacy, shelter and security for your family and pets, separating
your property from your neighbour’s or simply creating a divided
space within your yard. With a little DIY skill and help from
Magnet Mart, you can build a fence to last.
1. Laying Out the Fenceline
• If the fence is to delineate your property boundary, it is a
good idea to ensure that the existing fence line is actually on
the correct boundary. If you have any doubts, seek the
assistance of your local building authorities before you replace
the fence. Note that you may be able to share the costs of a
boundary fence with your neighbour, depending on local
council regulations.
• Once you are satisfied with the line of the fence, you can lay
out the posts as explained below.
2. Setting the Posts
•
Stand the post in the hole, attaching temporary
bracing to hold it vertical and straight to the line.
Use a spirit level or post level to check the
post (see Fig 2).
Fig2.
Bracing
the posts.
•
Mix sufficient concrete to fill the post
hole according to the manufacturer’s
instructions, fill the hole and smooth the
surface, angling the concrete down
from the sides of the post for
drainage (see Fig 3).
•
Stretch a string line between the top of the two
end posts (see Fig 4), it is a good idea to stretch
a second line about mid-way down the height
of the posts. Now set the intermediate posts
every 2 to 2.7 metres using the procedure
outlined above. Ensure the intermediate posts
are level with the string lines and vertical (see
Fig 5).
Fig3.
Concreting
the base.
Fig1.
Stringline for setting the posts.
3
2m-2.7m
2m-2.7m
2m-2.7m
Fig4.
Stretch two stringlines between
the two end posts..
•
Drive a stake into the ground at one
end of the fenceline and run a string
line to the opposite end, driving in
another stake (see Fig 1).
•
You can fit two or three rails to the posts - a three
rail fence is advisable for taller fences or where you
may need an extra strong fence. Otherwise, a two
rail fence is usually adequate up to 1.5 metres high.
•
Intermediate posts are set equally
every 2m to 2.7m along the line (see
Fig 1).
•
Set the corner, or end posts first,
dig holes approximately 600mm
deep x 300mm square for fences up
to 1.8m high. For higher fences, you
may need to set your posts 1 metre
into the ground.
300mm
600mm
Fig5.
Set intermediate with
post level posts.
•
Set the bottom rail approximately 300mm
up from ground level and the top rail at a
minimum of 75mm from the top of the posts
(see Fig 6).
4. Fixing Palings
Butt Fixed Palings
•
75mm
If you choose to simply butt the palings across the fence,
commence at one end by first ensuring the paling is vertical
(use a spirit level) and fixing it using two 40mm x 2mm
galvanised nails to each rail.
Fig6.
Setting
the rails.
•
Mark out the depth of the rail and cut notches
in the posts for the rails (see Fig 7) using a
saw to cut to the depth line and chisel to cut
out the waste.
•
Butt the next paling against the first, ensuring it is vertical
and fix to the rails. Proceed in this manner along the fence,
periodically checking that the palings are vertical (see Fig 11).
•
Fix the rails into position and nail to the posts
using 75mm x 3.75mm galvanised bullet head
nails, ensure that joins are butted together in
the centre of a post (see Fig 8). Stagger joins in
the rails as shown in Figure 9.
300mm
Fig11 Butt fixing the palings.
•
If you wish, fix a 150mm x 25mm hardwood board (a ‘plinth’) to
the bottom of the fence, using a string line to make sure the
plinth is straight. The plinth will assist in keeping the palings
straight (see Fig 10). This step is optional.
Fig7.
Cut notch in
the post for
the rails.
Overlapping Palings
• The best way to overlap palings is to use two different widths
of paling, the first layer is made from 150mm wide palings
while the covering palings are 100mm wide.
• First, fix the 150mm wide
palings to the fence using two
40mm x 2mm galvanised nails in
each rail, leaving a 50mm gap
between each paling (see Fig
12). Ensure the palings are
vertical as you go, checking with
a spirit level.
• Now fix the 100mm palings over the spaces, overlapping the
first palings by 25mm on each side (see Fig 13). Fix the top
palings using 50mm x 2.8mm galvanised nails driven into the
bottom palings, but not through them (see Fig 13). Ensuring
the nails do not go through the bottom palings will reduce
splitting as the timber shrinks.
Picket Fences
Fig9.
Stagger
Joints.
Fig12 Leave 50mm gap
between palings.
Fig8.
Butt fit two
ends of rails
to the centre
of the post.
Fig10.Set up a
plinth to keep
the palings
straights.
Fig13 Overlap palings and nailing.
•
If you have decided on a picket fence, you will need to
choose from the available profiles that best suit your needs.
Usually pickets are cut from long lasting timbers such as
Cypress Pine or Treated Pine, the most popular profile being
the Windsor pattern.
5. Topping the Fence
•
Once all the palings are fixed to the fence, you will need to
cut them all to the same height. This is easier using a power
saw and a timber batten temporarily fixed to the back of the
fence for the saw to run along (see Fig 17).
•
Palings should be
trimmed around 200mm
above the top of the
upper rail.
Fig17.Topping the fence.
•
Posts should be trimmed
to paling height or just
below, ensuring that
you angle the top of the
post to allow water to
run off (see Fig 18).
Windsor
•
For those who want a quick-fix picket fence, try the Cypress
Pine picket fence panels available from Magnet Mart in
lengths of 2740mm and either 1200mm or 1500mm high.
These panels are simply fixed to posts (see Fig 14).
•
Palings may be fitted with a metal cap to prolong the life of
the fence, special fence caps are available, or you can use
25mm aluminium channel (wider for overlapped palings),
fixed with a screw every 500mm or so along the fence (see
Fig 19).
Fig14. Ready fixed fence panel.
Fig18 Angle post top for
water run off.
Fig19 Fence cap.
Fig15. Use a spirit level to ensure that
picket is vertical. Use a string line
to mark the height of the fence.
•
To fix your own pickets, fix the
first picket at one end of the
fence, ensuring it is vertical using a spirit level (see Fig 15).
Run a string line along the fence line that marks the height of
the pickets (see Fig 15), ensure that every picket just touches
the string line and you will have a neat fence.
6. Fence Finish
•
It is best to leave the fence for a few months prior to
applying a fence finish. This gives the timber time to shrink. If
you have used treated pine timber, you can apply a fence
finish straight away.
Fig16. Keep constant gap
between pickets with
a piece of scrap
timber.
•
Choose a suitable gap, usually around
25mm, and fix the next picket to the
rails. For an easy way to keep a
constant gap between pickets, cut a
piece of scrap timber to width and use
it as a spacer (see Fig 16) and continue
to fix the pickets to the rails.
•
Talk to your local Magnet Mart store about the range of
fence finishes available to protect and beautify your new
fence.
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