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Fences - Fencing Lessons, Woodworking Plans
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]Popular Mechanics - Fencing Lessons
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FENCING LESSONS
For those who don't buy off the rack.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY THOMAS KLENCK
Published on: April 1, 1999
Homeowners build fences for a lot of different reasons. Some want
total backyard privacy while others can live with a partial
screen–enough to peek at the neighbors without feeling on display.
And then there are the practical types who lean toward chain link
for keeping the kids in and the neighbor's dog out. However, you
don't need kids, dogs or something to hide to want a fence. The fact
is, a well-designed fence is one of the best ways to add personality
to your home. If it also defines your space in a useful way–so much
the better.
Of all the fences you might build, the picket fence is one of the
most popular. Depending on how it's detailed, a picket fence is as
appropriate in a community of split-levels as it is in the backyard
of an urban townhouse. The partial screen of a picket fence adds an
element of friendly privacy to the landscape–you're not shutting the
world out, you're just organizing it.
Our fence is made up of 1 x 4 pickets screwed to 2 x 4 rails. While
the picket/rail assembly is conventional, our post design has
several unique features. First, the posts are boxed--3/4-in.-thick
pine encases a pressure-treated 4 x 4 core. Then, instead of
full-length 4 x 4s, ours extend from below the frost line to about 20
in. above grade. This stub post negates the effect of excessive twist
common in longer lengths of 4 x 4 stock.
1--Gang together picket blanks and use a circular
saw set at 45 degrees to make most of the cuts for
the rough picket shape.
The box post design also makes it easy to notch in the rails and
completely enclose the rail ends. At the top, our post has a 4 x 4
core block with a pyramid-shaped upper end. Surrounding the
block and recessed into it is a sloped collar that seals out the
weather. Decorative trim underneath the collar completes the post
top.
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Popular Mechanics - Fencing Lessons
Ground Work
This fence is designed for a relatively level site. If your site has
minor elevation variations, plan for the tops of the pickets and
posts and the top rails to be level. Cut the bottoms of the pickets
and posts to suit the grade and adjust the bottom rail position
accordingly. We preassembled the picket/rail sections in modular
lengths of 12 pickets (about 8 ft.) and built shorter, custom sections
where necessary. Note that rail lengths change depending on
whether the picket/rail assembly is in the middle of a straight run
of posts, at a corner or at an end or terminating post.
2--Finish the rough picket outline by making the
longer side cuts on individual pickets with a sabre
saw.
Carefully lay out the post hole positions and dig the holes below
the frost line. Keep the removed soil covered on a tarp or plywood
panel until it's time to backfill the holes.
The Pickets And Rails
We used a router to shape the pickets. To reduce the load on the
router, first rough out the shape of each picket with straight cuts.
Make a template of the rough picket profile as shown in the
drawing accompanying this article and use this to mark your work.
Gang a number of pickets together, make sure they're aligned and
hold them in place with a pipe clamp. Then make the 45 degrees
cuts with your circular saw (Photo 1). Use a sabre saw to make
final cuts on the sides of the individual pickets (Photo 2).
3--Use a router, 1/2-in. bit, 1-in. guide bushing
and picket jig to trim the rough pickets to the
finished shape.
Build the picket jig shown in the drawing to hold each picket while
the final shape is routed. Clamp each picket in the jig and use a
1/2-in. straight bit and 1-in. guide bushing to make the cuts (Photo
3). Use a router table and piloted chamfer bit to shape a 1/8-in.
bevel around the top and sides of each picket.
Cut the rails to length based on your plan. Note that the distances
from the outer pickets of each section to the rail ends vary
depending on the type of post. At an end post the rails extend
through the inside of the box. At a corner, the rails of one section
run long while the rails of the adjacent section are short and butt
against the longer rails. In a continuous run of fence the rails meet
at the post centerlines.
4--Build an assembly table with stops to position
rails. Use spacers to locate pickets and attach with
two screws per rail.
Preassemble the rail and picket sections, securing each picket with
two screws at each rail (Photo 4). Use a piece of plywood with
stops attached to locate the rails. Then use spacer blocks to position
the remaining pickets.
The Posts
Rip 1 x 6 pine to 5 in. wide for the wider post faces. Cut two
5-in.-wide pieces and two 1 x 4 pieces to length for each post. Use
the chamfer bit and router table to shape the stopped chamfer on
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the wider pieces as shown. Then, cut the rail notches with a sabre
saw. Screw two 1 x 4 pieces to a 5-in. piece to make three-sided
posts (Photo 5). Bore angled screw pilot holes so the screwheads
miss the chamfers. Countersink the holes slightly.
Cut the top 4 x 4 blocks to length and shape the ends with a miter
saw (Photo 6). We used cedar for the top blocks as it was dry and
dimensionally stable. If you use pressure-treated stock, you may
need to trim the 4 x 4s with a power plane or hand plane so the
blocks fit the 3 1/2-in.-sq. box openings. Build a jig to rout the
recess around each block as shown. Attach each top block to a post
with screws driven through on two adjacent sides (Photo 7).
5--Assemble three-sided post boxes. Bore screw
pilot holes and drive screws at a slight angle so
heads miss the post chamfers.
6--Use a power miter box to cut top blocks to size
and shape. Set the saw for 23 degrees and trim to
centerlines marked on the block end.
7--After routing the recess around each block,
install three-sided posts and secure with a screw
on two adjacent sides.
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Make the collar stock by ripping 5/4 pine to the angle shown. Miter
each collar piece to length and assemble three-sided collars with
screws and exterior glue. Slide each partial collar in place from the
open side of the post, align it and secure one side with screws (Photo
8). Then, add the fourth collar piece on each post and screw the collar
to the box sides as shown.
Use an ogee bit to rout the post cap trim in 5/4 pine, miter the trim and
install three sides around the box post (Photo 9).
Cut the 4 x 4 core posts to length, check that they will fit in the box
cavities and plane the faces if necessary. Place each in its hole and use
a line level to locate the notch positions. Cut the notches by making a
series of cuts with a circular saw and removing the waste with a chisel
(Photo 10). Check that the bottom of each box post will end at the
correct height above the ground and trim if necessary. Secure the posts
to the 4 x 4 cores with four screws on two adjacent sides.
8--Slide three-sided collar around block from open
side of post. Secure with screws and attach
remaining side with glue and screws.
Installation And Finish
After priming the posts, place them in their holes with the open sides
facing the inside of the fence. Then, clamp a picket/rail assembly to
each pair of posts. Screw the bottom rail of each section to the notch in
the 4 x 4 core post (Photo 11).
Use braces screwed to stakes to hold the posts upright in the holes.
Plumb each post and sight down the fence to make sure they're
aligned. When you're satisfied, backfill the holes, tamping down the
soil after every few shovels.
9--Use galvanized finishing nails to secure trim
under the post collar around three sides of the box
post. Drive two nails per piece.
Install the remaining post sides with screws driven into the existing
post boxes, post cores, top blocks and upper rails. Cover all
screwheads with exterior-grade wood filler and nail the remaining
piece of trim at the top.
Build each gate as a typical fence section, except with end pickets
flush with each pair of rail ends. Position the picket tops to create a
concave curve as shown and screw them to the rails. Cut a diagonal
brace to fit, secure it to the rails with 2-in. No. 12 screws and screw
the pickets to the brace.
10--Cut 4 x 4 post notches by making a series of
kerfs with a circular saw. Then remove the waste
with a sharp chisel.
Apply a bead of paintable silicone caulk to the gap around the post
collar and along all mitered seams (Photo 12). Attach the gates with
heavy-duty T hinges, using 2-in. screws where the hinge screw holes
are over the fence rails (Photo 13). For a double driveway gate, install
a cane bolt on one side and attach the second gate to the first with a
barrel bolt. Fill and sand all remaining holes. We finished our fence
with an acrylic primer followed by semi-gloss acrylic white paint.
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11--With the posts resting in their holes, install
picket/rail assemblies. Screw bottom rails to 4 x 4
posts, then plumb and align fence.
12--Apply a paintable silicone caulk in the gap
between the collar and top block. Also, caulk any
open joints in trim or box sides.
13--Clamp support sticks to the gate to help align
it with the fence. Use 2-in. screws to secure hinges
to fence rails.
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