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=March/April1992
=
DEPRTMENTS
Editor's Notebook
4
LeUers
Perspectives on scraper sharpening
6
Methods of Work
Krenov's students; bits and braces; update on sources
14
Questions
&
Answers
Radial-arm saw miters; hot-melt glue blocks; laying out cams
24
Events
Osage orange; drying spalted logs; formaldehyde safety
104
Books
Fo ur tablesaws with sp ecial crosscutting features,
like Makita's sliding table shown above, are re
viewed on p. 52. Cover: Jef Dale tells how he
shapes large, heavily contoured parts with a router
and jigs on p. 44. Cover photo and photo above:
Sandor Na yszalancz.
A
look at upcoming programs of interest to woodworkers
110
Notes and Comment
Desks and Bookses; Wesh Stick Chairs; Shaker Funiture Makes
112
Philadelphia Crat Show; bicker challenge; product reviews
Executive Elitor Jim Boesel
M"Rging Elitor Sandor Nagyszalanczy
Art Director Kathleen Rushton
ss
istRnt Elitors Charley Robinson,
Vincent Laurence, Alec Waters
Copy Elitor Deborah Surprenant
AssistRnt Art Director Aaron Azevedo
ElitoriRI SecretRy Claire Warner
Contributing Elitors Tage Frid, R. Bruce Hoadley,
Christian Becksvoort, Robert M. Vaughan,
Mark Duginske
Consulting Elitors George Frank, Norman Vandal
Methos of Work Jim Richey
Inlexer Harriet Hodges
RICLES
44
Shaping with a Router
by Jef Dale
Jigs and bits for large joints and profiles
49
Paulo
i
a
by John
H.
Melhuish, Jr.
A tansplanted hardwood that grows like a weed
52 Double-Duty Tablesaws
by Sandor Nagyszalanczy
Four machines with special crosscutting features
56 Turning Thin
by Toby Winkler
Tool-mounted fiber optics illuminate wall thickness
Publisher John Lively
AsistRnt Publisher James P. Chiavelli
CirculRtion MRnRger Brenda Hamilton
AlministrRtive SecretRy Susan M. Clark
58
Wiring a Home Shop
by Grant Beck
Additional circuits and outlets get your motors nnning
Alv
i
ng Coorli
r
Ka
n
Mo ian Simonds
Alvertising SecretRy Betsy Quintiliano
Tel.
(800) 283-7252 Fx. (203) 426-3434
Fine Woolworking Books
&
Vileo
Publisher John Kelsey
AssociRte Elitor Andy Schultz
SecretRy Barbara Hudson
63
Clamping with Wedges
by Percy W. Blandford
Tapered pieces can clasp or cleave
.
66
A Shop built Tenoning Jig
by Lyle Kruger
Safe, accurate tenons on the tablesaw
68
Convertible Funiture
by Edward R. Monteith
Tables designed to lead dual lives
72 From Artiture to Architure
by Vincent Laurence
Functional funiture with an architectural form
Fine Wdorking
is a reader-wriuen magzine. We welcome
proposals, manusQ'ipts, phOtographs and ideas from our read
ers, amateur or professional. We'll acnowledge all submisions
e oodworking, O ox 556,
t�l,
Conn.
47-556.
Tide to me copyrights in dle contributions appearing in
Fine Woodworking
magazine remains widl me audlors, pho
tographers and artists, unless Othelwise indicated. They have
granted publication rights to
Fine Woodworking.
74 Ater-Market Miter Accessories
by Daniel Westberg
In search of the perfect angle
t
er Col
78 Cut-off table to handle small pieces
by
c.
E.
nn
efeld
Fine odorking
(ISSN
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How to make and inset a traditional coner detail
s
#
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Removing an Old Finish
by Michael Dresdner
A chemical strpper will do the work for you
working® is a registered trademark of The Taunton Press, Inc.
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corresondence to the appropriate department
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Freehand Inlay
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A cribbage board provides good practice
92 he
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Editor's Notebook
Masterng the scaper
-
he articles by E.S. Martin and Pat Bu
ford about sharpening scrapers in
WW
#91 elicited quite a re
sponse. I suspected we would get some mail on this subject be
cause I knew that most woodworkers share the same kind of
frustration with sharpening a scraper that Martin and Buford
described in their articles.
When I was introduced to a cabinet scraper by my first shop
partner, Eddie Gnaedinger, back in the early 1970s, I was
amazed that I'd never encountered this basic woodworking tool
before. I figured that sandpaper manufacturers must have con
spired to keep this handy device a secret for fear that it would
drastically reduce sales of their products.
For months, I continued to find new uses fo r my scraper and
raved that it was the most used tool in the shop. But despite my
vigorous testimonials, I managed to avoid learning how to sharp
en it. Like Martin and Buford, I tried but never had much luck.
Instead, I kept an eye on Eddie, and whenever I saw him sharp
ening his scraper, I'd mosey over and suggest that, in the interest
of efficiency, he might as well sharpen mine too.
Eventually I learned to prepare the edge and turn a burr on a
scraper that would roll up a thin shaving and remain sharp for a
reasonable period of time. And later, I found myself assuming
the role of the designated scraper sharpener for other shopmates
who were just being inu-oduced to this wonderful little workhorse.
Although I haven't entirely abandoned my sandpaper-manu
facturer-conspiracy theOY, I've come to appreciate the fact that
scraper knowledge isn't general knowledge but is instead passed
from woodworker to woodworker-a kind of rite-of-passage into
the secret society of woodworking. Here are three letters in re
sponse to Martin's article from readers ofering their perspectives
on sh
e
ning a scraper.
-Jim Boesel
s
executive editol- of
WW
er leave the same kind of surface on wood as one that has been
filed, honed and burnished. Many craftsmen scrape their sur
faces to perfection in preparation for finishing instead of using
sandpaper. When the light strikes d1e surface of these finished
pieces, the wood comes to life. You know you are looking at a
surface that sandpaper has not touched. Such a surface cannot
be achieved with a filed scraper because d1e marks left by the
file on the scraper's edge will be u-ansferred to d1e wood. A iled
scraper should be viewed as a preliminalY way of dressing down
a surface speedily and eficiendy. Then you should eid1er expect
to do some sanding or you should give your project a
w
strokes
with a properly burnished scraper to bring it to perfection.
The second flaw was in d1e suggestion d1at a single scraper be
used both for fine finishing and glue scraping. You should have
separate scrapers for various
ss:
a thick one for glue, a ile
sharpened one for rough work on wood and a burnished one
for fine work. Over d1e years I've acquired a collection of scrapers
of various sizes, thicknesses and qualities of steel. Because I've be
come aware of the subdeties of ead1, there will always be one
scraper that has just the characteristics I need for a particular job.
-homas Wisback, Galesburg,
ll.
A
fool-proof method?-My
method for sharpening a scraper
takes some of the guesswork out of the process. The secret is a
2-i 1.-thick-maple block about 12-in.-sq. with one end cut clean
and square and sanded smooth. I use this end as a regisu-ation
surface when filing, honing and burnishing d1e scraper's edge.
Begin by clamping the block to a workbench or table. Lay d1e
scraper flat on top of the block and press a fine ile against
d1e block's smoothed end. Now, press the scraper lighdy against
d1e file; swing d1e ile back and ford1 a few times to remove d1e old
burr or any nicks and to square d1e scraper's edge. Repeat this on
each edge of the scraper, and d1en do the same with a coarse stone
followed by a ine stone. A drop or two of oil on the scraper will
lubricate the stones and will also help when you get to the bur
nishing phase. ext, lay the coarse stone lat on the scraper and
rub a bit on both sides to remove any burr d1at you've created.
Finish with a fine stone against the end of the block again.
At d1is pOint, you can feel that the edge is square and d1e cor
ners are very sharp. Now, while pressing the scraper down on
the block, hold a burnisher at about a 5° angle, and take a few
light su-okes on the scraper's top edge. Run your knuckles along
the end of d1e block to help maintain the slight angle; I usually
let the scraper overhang the end of the block a bit while bur
nishing and adjust the overhang to help set the correct angle.
I can put a good edge on a scraper in about four minutes,
including taking out d1e equipment and putting it away again.
The block gives the correct angle so there is no need for great
care. And the swinging motion of d1e stone means there is no
tendency to wear a groove in it.
-David Gather, Los Angetes,
Ca.
Free at last-I was pleased and relieved to see the article on
sharpening scrapers in
WW
#91. For years, I've been filing a
flat (90°) edge on my scrapers and not raising a burr because it
never seemed to work velY well when I tried it. The scrapers seem
to work wonderully without a burr, but I've always looked over
my shoulder (figuratively speaking) because
I
felt guilty about not
doing something I thought I really should be doing. I'm going to
continue
not
making a burr, but I won't feel guilty anymore.
-Abjab Reed,
w
ton
Centre,
Mss.
Usng the riht scraper for the job-I
read with interest the
article on sharpening scrapers in the December issue of
WW
It
struck home because I have been using file-sharpened cabinet
scrapers for quite a while now. And just like the author, frustra
tion with getting and holding a good burr using the traditional
techniques led me to this simple method.
However, there were two minor flaws in the text. First, it
should have been pointed out that a filed scraper edge can nev-
�
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