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[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]//-->FILL-IN-THE-____________SHAWL DESIGNblanksLaylock1© Derya Davenport 2012Not to be redistributed.Technical editor:Akshata Dhareshwar2HOWITWORKSWHAT THIS EBOOKALLOWS YOU TO DOThe method outlined in this ebook will allow youeffortlessly to construct your own triangular,square, circular or semi-circular shawl,knit flat,from the neck outwards,and “filled” with a stitchpattern of your choice. If you are unfamiliar withthis method of shawl construction, you may firstwant to knit a plain shawl, for which you can findinstructions here:2011/05/free-shawl-knitting-cheat-sheet/It is important tonote that the shawls need tobe blocked (wetted andpinned out to dry) into shapeto look their best.Two sets of stitch markersare used to construct yourshawl. The first set (A) willsimply mark the positions ofthe increases. The second set(B), which should be adifferent colour, will mark theedges of your stitch pattern.Because all increases are made “outside” themarkers that flank the stitch pattern, the shapingof the shawl doesn’t interfere with thedevelopment of your stitch pattern. Once enoughstitches have been increased on either side of thestitch pattern “block” for another repeat, themarkers are moved and you work two morepattern repeats between your B markers.Because the B markers need to be “reset” in thisway, I have included one extra marker in thecount for each shawl. If you have removablemarkers, then you won’t require this extra marker.Also,make sure that your stitch pattern beginson a right-side rowor the patterning will appearon the wrong side of your shawl. If your patternstarts on a wrong-side row, it is usually possible tobegin it one row earlier or one row later. Justswatch to see.What is the pattern repeat?The pattern repeat is the section of your stitchpattern written between asterisks or outlined inthe chart. In stitch dictionaries, it is often given as“multiple of ___ sts”. This is yourB number.What are selvedge stitches?Whenever stitch patternsinstruct you to“workto end”or“workto last __ sts”,the“end”.treat the next B marker asSelvedge stitches are extrastitches required to work a stitchpattern, in addition to thestitches required by the patternrepeat. In stitch dictionaries theyare often indicated after a plussign “+ ___ sts”. This numberadded to your B number givesyou your A number. If your stitchpattern doesn’t require selvedgestitches, your A and B numbers will be the same.That’s OK!THE METHODFirst, the increases are established with theplacement of the A markers, ensuring that therewill be either an odd or an even number ofstitches between the markers (excluding thestitches that separate double increases) toaccommodate odd- or even-numbered stitchpatterns. Once there are enough stitches to workone repeat of the stitch pattern (including theselvedge stitches), the B markers are placed andthe stitch pattern is worked simultaneously withthe shawl increases. When all rows of the stitchpattern have been completed, the knitter checksto see if there are enough stitches to work anotherrepeat (excludingthe selvedge stitches,whichSTITCH PATTERNSRemember that since you’re working a neck-downshawl, your stitch patterns will appearupsidedownwhen you wear your shawl!© Derya Davenport -// For personal or non-profit use only. Not to be redistributed.Technical editor:Akshata Dhareshwar-3are already in place). If there are, then an extrarepeat can be worked on either side of the currentstitch pattern block, resulting in 3 pattern repeatsin total. The B markers are moved to flank theseextra repeats, and the knitter cycles back tocomplete all rows of the stitch pattern with extrarepeats.BORDERSYou can also use this method to add a border to aplain shawl. Fill in your A & B numbers as usualfor your stitch pattern, butkeep repeating ROWS7&8 for a triangular shawl, 9&10 for a squareshawl or 11-14 for circularand semi-circular shawlsuntil you are ready to beginyour border. Then use thislaylock.org/sts)todetermine how manyrepeats of your stitchpattern will fit between your1st and 2nd A markers.Your stitch pattern should fitperfectly, without leftoverstitches to look its best. If itdoesn’t, then I recommendsome good-old-fashionedfudging. Then proceed withROW 9 for triangularshawls, ROW 11 for square shawls, or ROW 15for circular or semi-circular shawls.chosen stitch pattern will look with your yarn.Gauge is also unimportant, so choose a sizeneedle that works well with your yarn. As ageneral rule, garter stitch and lacy stitches willlook better when knit with larger needles than theyarn calls for. The shawls are knit flat, but you mayfind that circular needles make your life easier,because you can fit more stitches on them, youcan see your shawl taking shape, and if you’reknitting a large shawl, you don’t have to supportthe whole weight of the shawl with your hands.The triangular shawl requires the least amount ofyarn, then the semi-circular, then the circular andsquare shawls. You can cast offyour shawl whenever you think it’slarge enough, but you will wantatleast 200m/220ydsfor thesmallest triangular shawlette.The Little Shells patternlends itself naturally to astocking stitch base,Wheatear to reverse stockingstitch, and Snakes andLadders to garter stitch.ADVANCEDTECHNIQUESINCREASESFor the triangular shawl, 4 increases are workedevery right side row;•for the square shawl, 8 increases are workedevery right side row;•for the circular shawl, 8 increases are workedevery other right-side row;•and for the semi-circular shawl, 6 increases areworked every other right-side row.You can substitute amake one increase(m1l orm1r)for the yarn overs if you would prefer a moresolid fabric.•Once you have grasped thebasics of this formula, you’llrealise that there are a few ways inwhich you can improve the overalldesign, in particular bydiminishing the “blank” areas ofthe shawl (indicated in peach inthe schematic). Please note that this section onlyprovides general guidelines. If you don’tunderstand what is meant, you should probablypractice with the basic formula for the time being.If A = 3 or A = 4...Work until your A markers have been placed.Ignore the next 2 rows for triangular or squareshawls, or the next 4 rows for circular or semi-circular shawls, and continue with the next row,placing your B markers and starting your stitchpattern.If A = 2...Fill in A = 4 and B = 2. This means that you willbegin with 2 repeats of your stitch pattern insteadof 1 (i.e. you will need to “work ROW 1 of yourstitch pattern”twice).YARN & NEEDLESThis formula will work for any weight yarn, thoughof course you must be the judge of how well your© Derya Davenport -// For personal or non-profit use only. Not to be redistributed.Technical editor:Akshata Dhareshwar-4Background StitchesNot all stitch patterns have a stocking stitch base.Study your stitch pattern to determine whatbackground would work best for it: stockingstitch, reverse stocking stitch, or garter stitch, butremember that stocking stitch and reversestocking stitch have a natural tendency to curl. Ifyour stitch pattern doesn’t counter this tendency,you may prefer to work the background in garterstitch, regardless of what best suits your stitchpattern.The instructions as given will produce a stockingstitch background. Forgarter stitch,knit allstitches “outside” of your stitch pattern on boththe right side and the wrong side.Forreverse stocking stitch,purl all stitches“outside” your stitch pattern on the right side (allodd-numbered rows), and knit them on the wrongside (all even-numbered rows).Dividing Stitch PatternsSome stitch patterns can be broken up into halvesor quarters (both vertically and horizontally),which means that they can fit into the “gaps” thatthe whole stitch pattern can’t fit into. Dividing thepattern horizontally can be quite complicated. Youwill almost certainly want to chart your stitchpattern and possibly several repeats of the shawltoo. Breaking up a pattern across rows issomewhat easier. Instead of working ALL ROWSof your pattern before you check to see whetheryou can fit another repeat in, work only half or aquarter of the rows. Sometimes you might have apattern that looks nice whichever row you start iton. In this case, check after each increase row tosee if there are enough B stitches between your1st A and 1st B marker, and if there are, reset yourmarkers and add your pattern repeats, beginningwith the row you’re on instead of the 1st row of thestitch pattern.Some stitch patterns can also be truncated byremoving background stitches from either side,thereby allowing you to add repeats sooner.Understanding how to manipulate a stitch patternin this way requires a good understanding of it,and a good grasp of this design process, which iswhy I only recommend it for advanced knitters.Combining Stitch PatternsTo transition from one stitch pattern to another,count the number of stitches between your 1stand 2nd A markers. Once again, you can use thiscalculator to determine how to fit your new stitchpattern between your A markers with no leftoverstitches:Then, as describedin the section on borders, proceed withROW 9for triangular shawls, ROW 11 for squareshawls, or ROW 15 for circular or semi-circularshawls,working ROW 1 of your new stitch patternfor the number of repeats you calculated. In somecases you may be able to begin working the newpattern without completing all rows of the initialone. You need to have a good understanding ofpatterning to decide how best to transition intonew stitch patterns.The Wheatear Stitch is simply a lacy version of a 4x 4 rib, so for the pink shawl I transitioned into therib stitch for the last half repeat. You may notice,however, that I did not wait until I had enoughstitches to work another repeat of the 4 x 4 rib.Instead, whenever I worked into a yo on the WS, Imade the decision whether it should be a knitstitch or a purl stitch. Not all that complicated ifyou’re an intermediate or advanced beginner!It is also possible to fill the “gaps” with a smallerstitch pattern. You can achieve this by using thesame process as you do for your main stitchpattern. Work until you have enough stitchesbetween your 1st A marker and 1st B marker foryour smaller stitch pattern. Then, when you haveenough stitches for your larger stitch pattern,switch to that. Preferably, you will want to havecompleted all rows of your smaller stitch patternbefore you add another repeat of your largerstitch pattern, so this may take some working out.Using the Blank ChartsOnce you understand the process, and knowwhere the increases and extra central andselvedge stitches are placed, you can forgo usingthe B markers. Fill in the correct chart for yourshawl, and use this as your stitch pattern. Workuntil your A markers have been placed, thenbegin working your chart between the A markers,being careful to keep to the placement of yourincreases.© Derya Davenport -// For personal or non-profit use only. Not to be redistributed.Technical editor:Akshata Dhareshwar-5 [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
